The Society comes up roses

Anthony Rose, in his Independent column, says:

The Wine Society needs little introduction from me, suffice to say that no-one I know regrets the £40 membership fee paid for a lifetime share. The Society’s wines often have more bottle age … , a feature I appreciate. The 2007 Allende White Rioja, £18, showed how worthwhile this can be, a stylish, nutty, deliciously rich dry white whose complexity rivals good white Burgundy. Same goes for the white Burgundy lookalike from California in the gloriously rich, complex, butterscotchy 2006 Au Bon Climat Sanford and Benedict Chardonnay, £25.  2006 Clos Floridène, Graves, £14.95, had retained a vigorous presence through its stylish cassis-laden fruit quality. [This] contrasted with the brilliant Henri Marionnet’s 2009 Touraine Gamay, Première Vendange, £9.95, a nubile, cherryish autumn red that blows most Beaujolais away. If you think The Wine Society pricey, the Alandra NV from Herdade de Esporão, a moreishly damsony Portuguese tinto, £5.95, should change preconceptions.