Wed 02 Jan 2013

Cellar Surprises


The Societys-Cotes-de-GascogneThe Christmas holiday involved a little tidying of a rather neglected wine rack. My hopes were not especially high for not just one but three bottles of the 2010 Society’s Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne: one not to risk on anyone but ourselves, I thought, bearing in mind we’ll be moving on to the 2012 vintage any minute.

How wrong I was. The wine was as fresh as a daisy and delicious. The combination of a perfect screwcap (given a knock they are not infallible), a very good white wine vintage, and the combined experience of champion of the south west Marcel Orford-Williams and a hundred years of the Grassa family at Tariquet of course meant I had little to worry about.

A bottle of Monte Velho Branco from the 2009 vintage, which was hot even by Portuguese standards, had developed secondary, slightly nutty flavours under cork, so was less pristine, but was still an enjoyable bottle.

This is not a recommendation to keep modest white wines longer, just a tip not to consign outwardly elderly bottles to the cooking wines corner until you’ve tried them!

Jo Locke MW
Society Buyer


  1. Chris Wood says:

    Aha! We too are on the 2010 Vin de Pays de Cotes de Gascoine and are finding it very good. Perhaps even a bit more approachable than its sometimes rather in your face acidity of youth? We would never consign to the cooking wines corner (much worse goes in that) and even before then, if opened and not up to scratch, and cooking not in progress, then for whites, there is always a bottle of Cassis on hand – not had to use on society wines since bought a mixed case that was just not my taste rather than any problems with the actual bottles.
    To qualify thought. All wines kept in good though slightly shambolic cellar conditions which I’m sure has helped.

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