Thu 06 Feb 2014

Greywacke Dinner with Kevin Judd at The Dock Kitchen

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At a recent wine dinner for members in London, Kevin Judd, pioneering New Zealand winemaker, showcased his Greywacke wines at Stevie Parle’s Dock Kitchen restaurant in Ladbroke Grove.

Greywacke winesDespite it being a wild, blustery January night, the convivial surroundings of The Dock Kitchen, set up in a refurbished Victorian wharf building next to the Grand Union canal, the fabulous wines and equally stunning cooking made this a night to remember. Especially when it commenced with a glass of the recently released 2013 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc; life-giving and affirming, with succulent tropical fruit flavours and plenty of zip to whet the appetite.

For me, the highlights were the Wild Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (wild, because it was fermented using only natural ‘wild’ yeasts), which despite the initial funky nose blossomed into a wonderfully intricate and aromatic wine which chimed beautifully with the starters which were themselves delicately aromatic. The Chardonnay had a smoky edge to it which complemented the gentle sweetly spiced chicken livers. I found the same initial smoky/musky aroma when I tasted the Pinot Noir though this quickly dispersed to reveal a charming floral nose and a deep spicy flavour which married perfectly with the subtle spicing of the lamb tashreeb.

Greywacke winemaker Kevin Judd speaking to members

Greywacke winemaker Kevin Judd speaking to members

Chef and owner of The Dock, Stevie Parle, who has trained at The River Café, Moro and Petersham Nurseries, runs what he calls an ‘experimental kitchen’, trying out different dishes from whatever is in season and mixing many different cuisines inspired by travelling to far-flung places.

The menu for the evening was as intriguing and tantalising as the wines, and we thought it would be interesting to know how Stevie had gone about selecting the dishes to pair with Kevin’s wines.

Joanna Goodman
News Editor

Steve Parl

Stevie Parle

It’s always nice to be given a few constraints when writing a menu, especially when you have such an extensive range of cooking styles, flavours and ingredients to choose from as we do at Dock Kitchen. It was quite a challenge to match the food to the wine as this is not how we are used to working, but I think this made for a more imaginative and interesting menu.

Flatbreads with za’atar

This is the flatbread that we make day in and day out at Dock. We cook it in our tandoor oven and finish it with a little oil and za’atar, a fragrant and tangy Middle Eastern spice-blend that includes sesame seeds, dried thyme and sumac.

Potato bondas chaat masala (spiced, fried potatoes with a chopped Indian salad)
Green tomato thoran (dry, fried curry)
Chicken livers, green masala
Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc 2012 & Greywacke Chardonnay 2011 (served side by side)

We wanted to find dishes that would complement the fragrance and richness of both the sauvignon blanc and the chardonnay. We decided on a selection of delicately spiced Indian starters. Our version of the classic Indian dish chaat masala is a very popular dish at the Dock and we knew that its mixture of sweet spices would sit perfectly next to the crisp acidity of the sauvignon.

We chose the thoran because we felt that the citrusy, almost vegetal flavours of the green tomatoes, lightly spiced with a little chilli, curry leaves and mustard sees was a real match for the richness of both the sauvignon and the chardonnay.

We love chicken livers at the Dock and we chose a punchy green masala sauce that we knew would work really well with chardonnay.

Greywacke dinnerLamb tashreeb
Spinach sebzi
Greywacke Pinot Noir 2011

Pinot noir and lamb is a classic combination but pinot noir is also one of my favourite things to drink with spicy food. I made sure that we cooked a really flavoursome and assertive dish. Slow-cooked lamb with the acidity of the dried lime and sweetness of the rhubarb. This seemed like a great combination for a fairly robust pinot noir to me. We made some spiced spinach to be eaten alongside the lamb.

Cheese: (with late harvest Pinot Gris)
Tomme crayeuse (Semi-soft, ‘chalky’ cow’s milk)
Bleu de Termingon – (unpierced chalky blue from Haute Savoie)
Tomme du Berger – (Washed rind goat’s & sheep’s milk)
Greywacke Riesling 2012

The Dock Kitchen

The Dock Kitchen

We selected three different styles of cheese here, all of which we thought would complement the riesling in different ways without overpowering it. The tomme du berger, a washed-rind mixed goat and sheep’s milk cheese from Provence, was a recommendation from our cheese supplier, Mons, and it turned out to be a beautiful match. We selected the tomme crayeuse from Savoie for its chalky minerality (crayeuse means chalky in French) and the bleu de termignon (also from Savoie) for its salty edge. This is quite a rare unpierced blue cheese with a relatively mild flavour which we felt would not overpower the Riesling, its saltiness complementing the sweetness of the wine.

Pistachio & Nutmeg cake
Greywacke Late harvest Pinot Gris 2011

This is one of our most loved desserts at Dock. It’s not overly sweet which was one of the reasons that we felt it would match the late-harvest pinot gris – a sweet but not a cloying dessert wine. The nutmeg in the cake brings a gentle sweetness to the cake which is balanced out by the fragrant, almost savoury flavour of pistachios.

Stevie Parle
Chef and Owner, The Dock

We already list several Greywacke wines and will be offering more later in the year. Read more about the 2013 vintage in Rebecca Gibb’s blog post and our offer, which closes on Sunday.

Rebecca has also written about the future of Marlborough sauvignon blanc for our Wine World & News pages.

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