Grapevine Archive for March, 2014
What do you think of when you heard the words ‘Bordeaux’ and ‘wine’?
Value? White wine? Sweet wine? All three of these components are arguably overlooked in this vast region, spanning over 10,000 properties.
Recently we caught up with two of our most valued and long-term Bordeaux suppliers, Basaline Granger Despagne and Fabrice Dubourdieu to discuss just that. You can take a look at the video there and browse some of our Joanna Locke MW’s best buys from the region (available until this Sunday) here.
Olivier Leflaive have launched a new wine which we are offering in our duty-paid selection of White Burgundy.
Named Oncle Vincent, it is made from old vines classified as Bourgogne but well situated, sited just below those of Puligny. It is a lovely barrel-fermented wine from the super 2012 vintage which is concentrated yet fine.
Society Buyer for Burgundy
If you can imagine a week of speed dating was combined with your first day at school (where every other student has been at the school seemingly since it was founded) you will start to understand the feelings associated with an induction week at The Wine Society!
Here are a few snap shots one week in:
Roll on week two…!
Drinking fine wines at their delicious peak is one of life’s great pleasures – all the more so when the price one paid for it is a distant memory.
In this short video, head of buying Tim Sykes and wine buyer Joanna Locke MW discuss the benefits of laying down fine wines, from the changes that occur in bottle over time to the special moment when the cork is pulled.
Fine Wine Manager
Kumeu River in New Zealand have just started harvesting fruit from their vineyards which have supplied members with exquisite chardonnay for many years.
With harvest in full swing, and perfect weather, here are some pictures taken just a few days ago (the red grapes are pinot noir).
The Tuesday night glass of wine need not be a starter for ten.
Too many times in the past I have opened a bottle of an evening to share with my girlfriend, only to be left with a half-full bottle that requires a decision I felt unable to make for the best!
A suitably sized solution is at hand! My colleague Martin Brown also wrote in praise of the half bottle on this blog some years ago, and the message is still the same.
The Society’s halves allow a midweek measure of one’s favourite tipple. The flexibility these halves afford are well known with regards to sweet dessert wines, but with a range that includes sherry and Champagne, our selection enables anyone to do things in half measures and not be chastised for it!
Not only that, but also, at more indulgent times of the week, they present an ideal opportunity for matching wine with food courses.
Indeed, a belated Valentines meal allowed me to do just that: a half bottle of Cassis, Clos Val Bruyère, Château Barbanau complemented my garlic prawns (and stood up admirably to the hint of chilli), before a half of Jaboulet’s Ventoux Les Traverses, whose ripe grenache fruit provided the perfect fruit for pigeon breasts pan fried with butter. My treacle tart and modest cheeseboard was then served with a stunning half bottle of Williams & Humbert As You Like It Amontillado.
My only regret was not having a half bottle of The Society’s Champagne to start!
The Cellar Showroom
This recipe, while hopefully of use and interest to all, was written with the Easter 2014 selections of The Society’s Wine Without Fuss subscription scheme particularly in mind. Voted Best Wine Club by both The Independent and Which? Magazine, Wine Without Fuss offers regular selections of delicious wines with the minimum of fuss. Why not join the growing band of members who let their Society take the strain, and are regularly glad they do?
Find out more about Wine Without Fuss in a short video on our website.
I have never understood why so many people prefer the breast meat of a domestic fowl, tame in every respect and redeemed, for me, by the dark, succulent leg. Yet, ‘taking drumsticks’ was traditionally very much the Christian duty of someone well down the, er, pecking order: I’m reminded of Amy, the youngest of Louisa May Alcott’s Little Women, who is commended for doing so by her saintly Papa and ‘Marmee’. One assumes that the parson’s nose was reserved for Hannah the Help.
At a very chic three-starred establishment in southern Burgundy, I was once even offered ‘breast or thigh’ of my poulet de Bresse by a supercilious waiter. As the price amounted to several weeks’ wages, I was expecting the full monte and nearly caused an international incident by demanding both. The rest of the story doesn’t bear repeating, but we’ve never been (allowed) back.
The difference in texture between the two is, of course, one of the challenges of cooking turkey. The choice of dry breast or still-raw leg is no choice at all, and, increasingly daunted by interminable brining, obsessive basting, triple foil-wrapping and all the other techniques designed to even the score a bit, I now deem any big fowl a game of two halves. Thighs are slowly braised in wine and herbs, while a crown can either be boned and stuffed or, as below, roasted on the bone with a generous dollop of well-flavoured butter tucked under the skin.
This festive Easter recipe, is straightforward to prepare, easy to carve and vinously versatile. Simply vary your basting butter to match your chosen tipple: garlic and Provence herbs for robust Mediterranean whites and reds, a dash of chilli or smoked paprika and fresh coriander if you’re in Spanish mode or – a Rolls Royce moment, this – white truffle butter for a creamy chardonnay or pinot noir.
Janet Wynne Evans
Specialist Wine Manager
EASTER CROWN OF TURKEY
1 premium turkey breast on the bone, about 2.5kg
2 large carrots, chunked
2-3 very large onions, quartered
4 sticks of celery, cut into halves or thirds if very long
a head of garlic, halved
200ml white wine
a handful of thyme sprigs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
120g flavoured butter of your choice, softened
200ml chicken or game stock
1 tablespoon or two of double cream (optional)
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Gas 4
Put the onions, carrots, celery and garlic into a roasting tin that comes with a rack or trivet. Add the thyme sprigs and moisten with the wine. This will be the rhythm section for your gravy. If you’ve lucked into unexpected giblets, wash these carefully and tuck them in too.
Put the trivet over the vegetables and the turkey on top of that, skin-side up. Pat the skin thoroughly dry with kitchen towels.
Now carefully lift the skin from the flesh taking great care not to tear it. Provided you don’t have killer talons, fingers are best for this. Otherwise use the end of a wooden spoon or similarly blunt instrument. Navigate your way along the length of the breast, separating skin from flesh until you have made a large pocket to hold the butter.
Now take half the butter and push it gently into the space created, pressing down on the skin to spread it evenly across both halves of the breast. Pull the skin back over the exposed flesh and pat into place. Smear with the rest of the butter, and season well with salt and pepper.
Transfer the tin to the oven and roast for about 1¾ hours. Check after an hour to ensure that the skin is not getting too brown: if it is, cover it with aluminium foil. Continue cooking for another 30-45 minutes. Test readiness by pushing a skewer into the thickest part of the breast. If the juices run completely clear, it’s done.
Lift the joint from the trivet onto a serving platter and rest it in a warm place for at least 20 minutes while you make the sauce. Remove the vegetables from the base of the pan with a slotted spoon. If you like, squeeze the soft, sweet garlic pulp from the spent heads and whisk in for a big flavour boost. Put the pan over a brisk heat and add the stock. Simmer to reduce, tasting as you go. A dash of cream at this stage can’t hurt. When it tastes right, check the seasoning and pour into a warmed sauce-boat.
Note: If you prefer a more traditional gravy, thicken the sauce by whisking in, over the heat, either a little cornflour, dissolved in some cold water, or a spoonful of beurre manié (a paste of equal parts of butter and flour).
Carve into thick slices and serve with the sauce and an assortment of vegetables or wild rice.