Wed 13 Jan 2016

Cellar Surprises: 2003 Muscadet

By

The downside of having a small cellar in another country is that it is generally only topped up once a year with Wine Society wines, and similarly audited, with the odd bottle passing its recommended drinking window.

This Christmas’ pleasant surprise was Bernard Chéreau‘s Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Le Clos du Château L’Oiselinière 2003.

Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Le Clos du Château L'OiselinièreWhen I joined The Society as a buyer in 2004, 2003 was the vintage I was confronted with. At the time I struggled to get to grips with it, especially in the Loire, where the ‘norm’ is something quite different.

There have been warm, ripe vintages since (notably 2005 and 2009) and I have come to think of 2003 as atypical, rather than the Hyde to the regular Dr Jekyll.

The biggest fear at the time was that the wines would have insufficient acidity to maintain freshness even over the short to medium term. Unusually, permission was granted to add acid but, with little or no experience of doing so, few growers did.

Thank goodness.

The best wines found their balance and I have enjoyed numerous examples over the last few years.

The Le Clos was still remarkably good AND fresh, and complemented a buttery and flavoursome chicken admirably.

Jo Locke MW
Society Buyer

The 2009 vintage of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Le Clos du Château L’Oiselinière is currently available for £10.95 per bottle.

Categories : Loire

Comments

  1. Kevin Bell says:

    We entirely agree with your comments on the 2003 Le Clos Muscadet, it is astonishing.

  2. Guy Dennis says:

    Love posts like this – really interesting.

  3. Hugh says:

    Great post, very interesting. Always great to hear about how wines are aging, gives me confidence to have flexibility on my drinking dates. More posts please

Leave a comment