Author Archive
The Week The World Came To Bordeaux
Posted by: | CommentsPrimeurs week in Bordeaux is a marathon of tastings of inky young red (and a few dry and sweet white) wines, a whirlwind of meeting and greeting, top and tailed by fine food and wines. You may be thinking that we wine buyers are spoiled – and you’d be right (we’ll spare you the detail, but these experiences re-affirm why Bordeaux remains unrivaled in the world for its potential finesse and keeping potential) but the pleasure is greater, and the debate all the more stimulating in the good company of buyers and sellers from all over the world.
At Château Haut-Bailly this year our tasting group included contingents from the UK, Canada, Switzerland, Germany, Chicago, and Texas (featured). The debate was open, friendly, and lively thanks to General Manager Véronique Sanders’ invitation to all of us to give her our views on the prospects for the Bordeaux Primeurs campaign this year. Irrespective of national and personal preferences, all nationalities were of one voice in asking for Bordeaux to reduce its prices significantly this year.
Generous hospitality is not unusual in Bordeaux, but this relaxed and open discussion was as refreshing as the very fine range of wines we enjoyed. Wines that could not come from anywhere else.
Please remember that we will be offering the 30 or so most sought-after wines from the vintage in a different way this year, requiring members to pre-order them. For more information, please refer to our website.
Joanna Locke MW
Buyer, Bordeaux
A Few Words From Bordeaux
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Shiny new (and rather Dalek-like) tanks, waiting to go into their new home at Château Palmer’s cellar.
It’s the producer – more precisely the vigneron – that counts this year; far more than location, appellation, or classification. It is no surprise that those who walked their vineyards and acted early on the vagaries of the growing season, and who could then afford to wait for ripeness, have made the best wines.
It looks unlikely to be much of an investors’ vintage; it could be a good ‘drinkers’ vintage, if – and it remains a big if – prices are correct. Our purchases will be a tight selection this year, and we’ll taste a lot more wines, including several numerous times, in order to finalise our Opening Offer which is due to be published in June.
As mentioned, we will be offering the 30 or so most sought-after wines from this vintage in a different way this year, requiring members to pre-order the wines. For more information, please refer to our website.
Joanna Locke MW
Buyer, Bordeaux
Bordeaux 2011: An Update
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There has been little written so far on the quality and style of the 2011 vintage in Bordeaux. However good some of the wines turn out to be, its almost inevitable fate is that it will be overshadowed by the much lauded 2010 and 2009 which preceded it. We prefer to keep our counsel until we have tasted the wines, which are currently being prepared for a week of trade and journalist tastings just before Easter.
The Wine Society Bordeaux team will be three this year – Sebastian and myself as usual, plus our new Head of Buying, Tim Sykes (in what will be only his third week with us; there’s dedication for you – I’m not sure he realises what he is letting himself in for!).
This first week will include visits to all the first growths, and tastings of many of the other, often most sought-after wines, all potential candidates for our first Opening Offer this year (see our website for details on changes to our Bordeaux Opening offer process for 2012).
We go back for more on 16th April, to ensure that we have tasted, at least once, as usual, any wine which we later decide to offer en primeur. I am just finalising our two visit programmes and starting to look forward to this year’s marathon, despite the prospect of taster’s teeth for the Easter weekend! We will keep you posted on the campaign from our perspective, and on our Opening Offers as they take shape.
Joanna Locke MW
Buyer, Bordeaux
Burgundy and Woodcock
Posted by: | CommentsNot that I’ve had much need of the word bécasse over the years. As Burgundy buyer Toby Morrhall has described, and as I was reminded at our local farmers’ market last weekend, woodcock is a rare and fine wild game bird. I once saw one close up because a French friend of mine has a passion for shooting feathered game, and one fell foul, illegally I seem to remember, of over enthusiasm at a birthday shooting party.
Last weekend’s woodcock had been shot ‘at too close range’ to make it saleable to a fine restaurant, which is apparently where most end up. Not a pretty thought, but, the meat in our Woodcock, Sage and Apricot stuffed Pheasant was just as it was billed: not quite as dark as pigeon, rich but not gamey, tender and velvet textured. And yes, I dug out a delightful, if modest, mature Burgundy to accompany it, which even my pinot-averse husband agreed was an ideal match. Here’s to the farmers’ market revival, for which I think we have a lot to thank our French friends and neighbours.
Joanna Locke MW
A Great Back Label
Posted by: | CommentsA bottle without a back label is rare these days, though it is still the case that the more you spend the less you seem to get!
Less consistent, however, is the quality of the copy. The French are often guilty of adding insult to injury when they translate their typically florid marketing copy into English verbatim.
Not so Madame Evelyne de Pontbriand, owner of Domaine du Closel in Savennières, and current, eloquent Président of the Savennières producers’ association. Her command of English is impeccable, as members who attended our Loire tasting in London earlier this year will have discovered. She also has a teasing smile and definite twinkle in her eye (ditto!), so we should not have been surprised to discover her delightful back label, which appears on the 2009 Savennières, Domaine du Closel, and which reads as follows:
“Wine for conversation. A dry and fruity chenin blanc expressing a hill of schist over the Loire valley. Harvested at the end of September, the grapes were golden yellow. After a slow natural fermentation and 10 months of elevage in our old cellar, this wine shows charm and insolence, minerality and elegance of our world heritage landscape, the light of the Loire valley, my love for nature. Drinking Savennières is an art de vivre: Pour it in a beautiful glass, crisp music on, have a friend join you, smell the aromas of white flowers, citrus and honey, take a sip: the palate is round, surprising, slightly smoky. The fruitiness and freshness of this wine will give you an immediate and unique pleasure. You will have an interesting conversation and soon feel hungry. Get some shrimps, grill some fish, steam asparagus in the spring…or be yourself, creative, eccentric and share your favourite pairing with me. Evelyne de Pontbriand.”
I should admit that the back label was brought to my attention by my buying colleague, Mark Buckenham, who was prompted to open a bottle by a member who had been unhappy with his. We tasted the wine over a couple of days and agreed there was nothing to worry about. Savennières is serious (one might even say difficult) wine, and this one, admirably certified organic, benefits from decanting to reveal its full complexity and character.
As far as back labels are concerned, feel free to share with us your best, or worst, examples; we already have something of a rogues gallery here at Stevenage!
Joanna Locke MW
The Liberator Caption Competition Results
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We have been delighted by the enthusiasm with which our members have received the two exclusive wines from The Liberator.
These ‘Special Editions’, made by one of the Cape’s best young winemakers, would have been blended into lesser wines had they not been ‘liberated’ by Richard Kelley MW and his Liberator project. We believe them to be a snip at the price and a great advert for the dynamism and innovation happening in so much of South Africa now.
Members that have not taken the plunge yet can still purchase them here.
As well as being a testament to how good the wines are, seeing them so well-received has highlighted how adventurous so much of our membership is. Not least the creativity shown by those who entered our Liberator Caption Competition, the results of which are now in.
Caption Competition Results
In my earlier blog post, we asked you to provide a caption for the image below, with Liberator prizes up for grabs. The picture comes from one of the quirky comic strips which accompany the wines (‘episodes’ in Liberator speak).
Here are the winning entries:
First place:
“I keep getting cork in my wine.”
“Yeah you need to get rid of that old hat and get a Screw Cap!”
(Mr Jim Donoghue).
Mr Donoghue will receive a mixed 12-bottle case of the wines and a unique framed print of Liberator artwork. Congratulations!
Runners up:
“Streuth! There’s a fly in my Shiraz!”
“Que Syrah Syrah…”
(Mr Nick Oury).
“I get red berries but I’m also getting cork”
“That’s your chapeau, not the chateau!”
(Mr Anthony Heath).
Both Mr Oury & Mr Heath will receive mixed 6-bottle cases of the wines. We hope you enjoy them.
The ‘Best of the Rest’
The competition entries generated a lot of amusement at The Wine Society’s office, so we thought it only fair to share with you some of the other entries received.
“Struth Rick, this Francophile’s real complex. There’s something I just can’t put my finger on…”
“Moi Aussie.”
“Alright Fella, don’t patronise me! I’m not your ‘Aussie.’ I’m my own bloke!”
Mr Nick Murray
“A distinctly colonial hat, with a certain charm; but unfortunately it’s corked.”
Mr Nick Murray
“Well, the time in barrel has certainly added a certain je ne sais quoi!”
Mr Eoin Bell
“Strewth! No flies on this one, mate.”
“Indeed, dear boy, this knocks most Aussie shirazes into a corked hat!”
Dr Chris Stray
‘For those about to slurp… we salute you!’
Mr Neil Todd
…And some from us:
While the competition was, of course, closed to Society staff, we couldn’t resist sending it round the office. Here are a few choice responses.
‘Despite his extensive research, Dave was still confused about the inspiration behind the band’s latest single “Whole Lotta Rosé.”’
“Oh my God, I think I smell an Aussie.”
“Excuse me – I showered this morning!”
“When I said I wanted to taste from the barrel I didn’t think you’d take it so literally. Glad I didn’t ask to taste from the bottle!”
‘Conversation was awkward as The Wine Society singles night proved less popular than expected.’
Thanks to all members who entered, and who continue to buy the wines. We very much hope you enjoy them.
Joanna Locke MW
Buyer, South Africa
Via Montreuil? Like fish?
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If you are travelling via The Wine Society’s French Showroom in Montreuil and enjoy good seafood, Etaples would make a great detour. We first discovered it following a fruitless search for a good beach on that stretch of coast (all recommendations for one in striking distance of Montreuil gratefully received!).
Lunch was our next priority and the Michelin came up trumps once again, tempting us with the restaurant Aux Pêcheurs d’Etaples, on Quai Canche, which it recommends for its perfectly fresh seafood. We were only to be disappointed once again, when, arriving with only 10 minutes of service remaining, we were greeted with a Gallic shrug and rather unapologetic “Non”, reminiscent of the old Barclaycard ads. We have not yet made time to try again.
However, as the Michelin points out, the restaurant sits above a large and mouthwatering poissonnerie. We were like children walking into a sweetshop. It looked wonderful, and smelt of the sea, offering almost as much cooked and prepared fish and shellfish as that fresh off the boat.
On our last trip home, in possession of fresh garlic but little else, we treated ourselves to fresh Gambas (with, helpfully, a fresh lemon. We could have bought a tub of their garlic mayonnaise too) and just a few hours later, arrived home to fire up the barbecue for our feast. A treat, even if Tesco’s last, rather limp pot of parsley did not really live up to the occasion. The poissonnerie, which is, surprisingly, open on Mondays, also sells a few wines, but hopefully members won’t need those.
We spotted a couple of smaller poissonneries on the same drag, which may be as good, and possibly cheaper, but queues were shorter and the big one was frequented by locals as well as visitors. Sadly, we have still not had time to find a Boulangerie nearby, but this is France; I feel sure there must be at least one good one nearby.
Joanna Locke MW
The Liberator Has Landed! Get Creative, Or Simply Enjoy
Posted by: | Comments‘The Francophile’ #1 and #2 (red and white), two exclusive new South African wines from The Liberator have just arrived and are now available.
As mentioned in my previous blog entry, these wines (or ‘episodes’ as they prefer to call them) are the result of a partnership between The Society, wine merchant Richard Kelley MW and one of South Africa’s most celebrated young winemakers. We are proud to offer these small-volume exclusives, made from special one-off parcels, each ‘liberated’ by Richard and his impeccable contacts from being blended away.
Each wine is accompanied by comic strips designed to match the wines, which you can take a look at here.
As with all wines bottled under The Liberator label, these are true one-offs, and therefore available in limited quantity and on a first come, first served basis. Do try them, or simply enter our caption competition to join in the fun.
The Liberator Caption Competition
Embrace the whole experience of The Liberator and the ride could be rewarding! To celebrate the launch of these two wines, we’re delighted to be able to give away Liberator prizes to three lucky members.
Given the superhero artwork and sense of fun embodied by The Liberator project, we felt we should encourage our members to get creative too. Suggest a suitable caption or dialogue for the comic strip on the right and the three entries deemed the wittiest, most apposite or most entertaining will win prizes.
The winning entry will receive a unique framed print of Liberator artwork and a mixed 12-bottle case of ‘The Francophile’ #1 & #2. Two runners up will receive a mixed six-bottle case of ‘The Francophile’ #1 & #2.
To enter, just e-mail theliberator@thewinesociety.com (please remember to quote your share number) by Monday 12th September.
We will then notify the winning members by e-mail and the results will be announced via Society Grapevine on Wednesday 14th September for us all to enjoy. Have fun!
For full terms and conditions, see here.
Joanna Locke MW
South Africa Buyer
Statement on HRW ‘Ripe with abuse’ report on South African fruit and wine farms
Posted by: | CommentsThis week there has been negative press coverage on the South African wine and fruit industries, following publication of a report by Human Rights Watch (HRW), a New York-based independent NGO. The report findings and the subsequent press comment paint a gloomy and sometimes shocking picture of conditions which cannot be condoned. Such criticism of poor performers within the industry should be welcomed, and we hope it will prompt the South African Government (some of the issues raised are rooted in local politics and history) to quicken the pace of change and to take firm action against unfair treatment.
It is, however, highly regrettable that so little space is given to acknowledge the very different, positive and proactive approach taken by so many responsible producers in The Cape. The report from HRW was based on interviews with a small sample of commentators and none of the offending producers are named. Inevitably, the reports are not necessarily representative and do not give a true reflection of the majority of the wine industry and the different sectors within it.
One positive paragraph among many negatives in the HRW report, brought to our attention by Cathy Brewer Grier at Villiera, does state:
“Conditions on farms vary, and not all farmworkers with whom Human Rights Watch spoke had encountered rights abuses. In a small number of cases, farmworkers and farm owners described full compliance with the law as well as a variety of positive practices by employers that went beyond the legally requirements. Some farmers give workers land to grow their own crops, pay the full cost of medical visits, provide free food to workers in the winter, or have set up trusts that benefit farmworkers. Farmers who provided these benefits to farmworkers noted that these efforts can be profitable.”
David Smith’s article in The Guardian on Tuesday highlights three “Exemplary brands”. One of these, M’hudi Wines, owes at least some of its success to the generosity of their neighbours, the Grier family at Society Chenin supplier Villiera, itself a shining example of an estate that goes far beyond the already high target industry standards on social and environmental issues.
Another is Thandi Wines, the world’s first Fairtrade accredited wine brand and supplier to The Society for the last few years. On my last visit there I was shown around the still new crêche, which provides a clean, safe, and educationally and physically stimulating environment for Lebanon Village farm workers’ children (funded partly by Thandi, part by parents, and part from charitable donations, including funds raised by a UK school for new outdoor play equipment). Conditions in the village itself are modest by our standards, but they have improved dramatically and continued support from international consumers such as ourselves ensure that they will continue to do so. I heard that one of their students was studying nursing in Stellenbosch with a view to returning to establish healthcare on site; also that their brass band is in need of a baritone trumpet!
Bon Cap, supplier of The Society’s Pinotage, is a small, family owned producer in Eilandia, Robertson, farming organically, and also providing a small crêche and a warm welcome for the farm workers’ children, without which many of their mothers would simply not be able to work. This costs the farm over 10,000R a month to run, funding two salaries. They have a small school on site too, and are installing solar panels in all farm workers’ cottages.
We seek to work with some of the numerous examples of responsible, warm, generous human beings in the wine industry in South Africa, who go the extra mile, believing that improving the lives, and in particular the education of their employees and their families now will lead to a better, more stable future for South Africa. To spoiled westerners, workers’ living conditions seem basic, but much has changed for the good. Outside of wine quality assurance, we do not conduct our own audit of producer practices in South Africa, nor in any other wine producing country or region, but we do visit most of our suppliers on a regular basis and welcome and encourage all positive social and environmental initiatives, in particular adherence to industry schemes such as WIETA and IPW and the new, as yet voluntary, Integrity & Sustainability seal (introduced from the 2010 vintage), and especially the many initiatives that go beyond these recognised industry standards.
It would be a tragedy if the recent negative coverage led to a boycott of South Africa’s wines. The Rand is strong, making much needed exports harder to come by, and it is only by selling their wines that responsible producers will be able to sustain a long-term future for their land, their families and the people they employ.
Jo Locke MW
South Africa Buyer
We invited some of our suppliers to comment on the issues raised by the report and their responses are below:
“Apart from the local IPW audit on Sustainability etc, my farm also has an International GLOBALGAP Certificate. It is audited annually by an International Body, CMI, based in the UK . Apart from good agricultural practices, it also audits workers’ working conditions on the farm, minimum wage audits and general well-being of workers on farms.
- All our workers and their families live on the farm in their own houses, all with solar heating panels, proper bathrooms and amenities. They live free of rent, nothing deducted from their earnings etc. Further water is free (i.e. I pay for it) and they only pay 10% of their actual electricity bill, which equates to about £1.50 per month to them.
- They all get payed above the minimum wage and work a 45 hour workweek, seldom overtime and if they do, get renumerated for it according to the law.
- The women only work part-time on the farm, and if they do, toddlers are looked after for free at a local creche. We pay the salary of the caregiver.
- They get all their annual leave according to the law.
- I provide free medical visits for workers and their immediate families to my local GP that I also visit , plus free medication from my local pharmacy. No burden on the National Health system. If need be, we also transport them free of charge, all hours of the day and night to the Hospital, seeing that ambulances are unreliable here and we live 25 kilometer from the nearest hospital.
- We never give wine for free. But at our annual after harvest bash at the seaside we take a few bottles with, as well as a bottle with Christmas….. I don’t think that is out of line.
- We actually have a waiting list of people that want to come and work here. Most of the people living on the farm, grew up with me here and call me on my first name.
- Protective clothing for spraying is normal practice, and all our vines and fruit are sprayed with a closed canopy tractor.
- All tractor and forklift operators are trained in a two year cycle, plus first aid is also lectured at least once a year.
- All the workers are offered an free annual checkup free for High Blood, Cholesterol, Blood, TB and HIV if they want to. We have regular drug and alcohol information afternoons. Luckily we do not have any problems with that at the moment.
I suppose I can go on, but I have a clean conscience how my workers are treated.”
Fanus Bruwer, Quando Vineyards and Winery
“At Quoin Rock:
- We pay our workers more that the average wage.
- No workers live on the property, but we provide transport to and from work.
- The only time our workers are allowed a taste of wine, is after some (not all) bottling, we let them have a taste (normal amount as at wine shows) of the new bottled wine.
- We produce organic vegetables, chickens and eggs, that are sold to the staff at a lower than shop price.
- Last year we had a workshop that interviewed all staff on a 1 on 1 basis, to find out whether anyone had a drug, domestic or alcohol problem, and helped where necessary with treatment and follow up visits.
- We avoid using insecticides, and tractors have cabs to protect the drivers from any spay residual while spraying in the vineyards.
- Staff receive training to operate machinery.
- Any injury is treated as serious and medical treatment is provided by a Doctor in Stellenbosch.
- It is company policy that all staff treat one another with respect.
“There’s probably a lot more to mention, but this should be sufficient to indicate that we do not violate human rights at Quoin Rock. I find it unfair that HRW use a few bad farms and put the rest of South African wine farms in the same box.”
Doug Murdoch, Quoin Rock
- Harvesting chenin blanc at Villiera
“I think the biggest problem is that they blew up the negative without reporting on many of the positive things that go on and the heading (“Ripe with Abuse”) is the worst part as that is all that most people read and it is bad and implies that it is common practice. To interview 260 people is not many (they could be form 2 or 3 farms but they are not saying so we will probably never know). All we can do is to make 100% sure all our ducks are in a row….
“Those that are IPW audited get the new sustainability seal which is all about traceability, health and safety etc. It is illegal to spray a vineyard without protection!
“As far as Villiera’s feelings: we believe fault can be found with the treatment of labour all over the world, which is why ethical trade and fair-trade exist. At Villiera we aim to ensure that our house is in order and in so doing, set an example. We satisfy multiple ethical audits and we are WIETA accredited. We know South Africa is heading in the right direction and feel that the good work should be acknowledged to balance any criticism of the country’s labour relations.”
Cathy Brewer Grier, Villiera
“It might be seen as a token gesture against all the controversy, but below is evidence of the £16,073 Richards Walford has donated in the past three years to the establishment and running costs of a crêche at Bon Cap, by reinvesting EUR1 monies that have been received as part of a duty kick-back arrangement between the EU and South Africa; monies that could have easily been allowed to fall to our bottom-line.
“We’ve been proud to be associated with this project and have been able to monitor its success on numerous visits to the farm.”
Richard Kelley MW, Richards Walford (UK agent for Bon Cap)
[The report] fails to identify the massive improvements in living conditions for workers in the wine industry over the past decade and also excludes mention of the enormous efforts and investments made by so many producers to improve the lives of their workers. Needless to say, Warwick upholds the most rigorous standards. We do not follow any prescribed codes but work on our own code of decency, on which we significantly over-deliver.
I have been very active politically on this front for almost a decade and was involved in originally establishing the Wine Industry Ethical Trade Association (WIETA) initiative.
Mike Ratcliffe, Warwick Estate
“Tierhoek was established in 2001 in the post-aprtheid era, and has always taken the stand that well looked after workers are integral to the success of the business.
“We are members of the IPW scheme, which is in place to uphold the sustainability and integrity of winefarms. All workers are paid above the minimum wage salary, all workers are educated on the safety of the farm environment, and all workers are encouraged to forward problems and issues to the manager, and duly resolve them.
“All workers receive free housing, with electricity and water provided, and all maintenance is upheld by Tierhoek. We also sponsor a garden competition that promotes sustainable edible planting, so that the families remain healthy, and can save money by eating their own produce.
“All tractor drivers and sprayers have the correct gear and protection, as stipulated by IPW, and receive free check-ups for blood testing and general health. All workers receive protective clothing gear according to their work.
“Workers are frequently driven to the nearest town for supplies, and there is a general supply shop on the farm. We also sponsor the local rugby team, which consists entirely of farm workers, with jerseys and transport to and from games.”
Roger Burton, Tierhoek Wines
Coming Soon: The Liberator
Posted by: | CommentsI am delighted to announce the impending arrival of two new and exclusive wines which embody the spirit of the new South Africa.
The Liberator, with its bright, modern packaging and comic strips designed to match each release (or ‘episode’), is not necessarily the sort of thing you might expect from The Wine Society. Yet these are just the sort of exclusive, small-production wines we are proud to be able to offer to members.
The project is the brainchild of wine merchant and Master of Wine Richard Kelley, who quite literally liberates rare parcels of premium quality wines that might otherwise be blended away into obscurity. Backed by some of South Africa’s most celebrated young winemakers and a bold team of creatives, this refreshing enterprise offers something at once delicious and different.
These wines wouldn’t be possible without a combination of impeccable contacts and an element of secrecy. I only became aware of the project when travelling with Richard in South Africa, and it was a mixture of curiosity and luck that allowed us to snap up the very first of The Liberator’s ‘Special Editions’. We are duty bound not to reveal the name of the highly acclaimed young winemaker behind them; save to say he is well-known as one of the Cape’s finest, and that you’ll certainly taste this quality in the finished wines.
The wines are about to arrive, so keep an eye out in the next week or so for updates (including a chance for members to get their own creative juices flowing, with prizes up for grabs).
Joanna Locke MW
South Africa Buyer






