Author Archive
Jamie Oliver, Wine and Beef
Posted by: | CommentsAn unexpected meeting with renowned chef Jamie Oliver last week got me reflecting about the similarities between sourcing quality wine and food.
I was dining with Wine Society supplier Daniel Castaño, behind the unpretentious Spanish monastrell we list, at Barbecoa restaurant in London (which happens also to list Daniel’s wine under its on-trade label – for obvious reasons, it’s several times more expensive there).
Barbecue beef is the speciality here and by happy chance Jamie Oliver was enjoying a night out with friends a couple of tables down from us. We soon got talking about wine and beef.
Jamie’s passion for quality was as evident as when he’s performing on TV. Apparently the choice of farmer, breed and feed are the key to a good piece of juicy, flavourful beef. And the parallel with wine starts here too. The decisions of the grape grower (like the farmer) will determine the quality of the harvested grapes. For breed read grape variety, for feed read soil management which aims to maximise vine nutrition and health. Like Jamie, The Wine Society starts by selecting the growers whose philosophy matches our quality expectations.
But it doesn’t stop there. Jamie Oliver goes one step further. He employs someone to select the very best from his chosen farmers by looking at the ‘marbling’ of each animal in the slaughterhouse. They might pick just two out of ten.
It’s what the Wine Society buyers do; granted, in the more amicable surroundings of a cellar or winery tasting room, but of the thousands of wines we taste each year, only a very small percentage makes it to the List.
Pierre Mansour
Buyer for Spain
Yalumba: Excellence In Sustainability
Posted by: | CommentsMany Wine Society members will be familiar with the delicious South Australian wines of Yalumba. As such, I thought you may be interested to hear that the company was recognised at last week’s ‘London’s Green Awards’, where they won the award for ‘Best International Business for Creativity in Sustainability.’
What’s more, they won out against a number of impressive (non-wine) organisations including Lal Pir Thermal Power Station in Pakistan and the Barbican Centre in London.Having dealt with Yalumba for a number of years, this is no great surprise: their attention to detail is quite incredible (they even have their own nursery for vine propagation). As a family-owned business (and the oldest of its kind in Australia), ensuring the long term health of both its vineyards and business has been a key strategy for fifth-generation Robert Hill Smith.
In typical perfectionist fashion, Yalumba have therefore taken their sustainable policy to dizzying heights. They have spent 2 million dollars in the past decade converting vineyard over to drip irrigation, resulting in water usage dropping by 40% and saving one billion litres of water/annum (the equivalent of 1000 Olympic size swimming pools). They use no insecticides in their vineyards and offset each hectare of vineyard with a hectare of native vegetation (80% of this has been through their own plantings). In the winery, they have installed heat recovery systems for their refrigeration units, and their packaging is now 98% recycled or recyclable.
First and foremost, they make superb wine; yet their environmental credentials are of course highly commendable and a good fit with The Society’s own stance.
As well as the wines we currently stock, we will also be releasing an exclusive-label 2011 sauvignon blanc called ‘Circles’ (which will be priced under £7 per bottle). This will be available next year.
Pierre Mansour
Australia Buyer
Margaret River Bushfire
Posted by: | CommentsLast week a bushfire burnt through the coastal areas west of Margaret River. The fire is now contained but it destroyed 32 houses and nine holiday chalets with damage to a further 22 homes. Fortunately there was no human cost. The fire was a result of prescribed burns by government agencies which were reignited by very strong northerly winds. The agencies do this in order to reduce fuel loads and provide protection for summer months to local seaside communities.
I have been in touch with a number of The Wine Society’s key suppliers. Moss Wood’s Keith Mugford says “We have been very fortunate and so far we been spared by the weather. The fires started about 10k south of us and the wind direction blew the flames and smoke away from us. Most vineyards seem to have been missed.”
McHenry-Hohnen were less fortunate with some damage to 2 hectares of chardonnay in their Burnside vineyard. Winemaker Ryan Walsh explains: “All okay in lives and buildings here just a little chardonnay gone from this year…..There is no long term loss in vines, the loss will only be taken for this coming vintage 2012. The Sauvignon Blanc from Burnside is untouched and looking very good for the coming 2012 vintage. Freya and I live approximately 2km North East from the Burnside vineyard and were evacuated Wednesday to Friday as a precautionary measure. We have now returned. The house is fine.” And Vanya Cullen by text “We r ok, fires are in the south, we r in north, but it is sad.”
Pierre Mansour
Buyer for Australia
More From Oregon
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A second update from Dave Noonan, who until recently worked at The Wine Society, and who is now working as a harvest intern at Lemelson in Oregon.
Pierre Mansour
The days start with a briefing from Anthony (King, winemaker) where amongst other things he explains how the grapes are doing in terms of sugar levels and, most importantly, what the latest weather forecast is.
The day ends when the work is done and we gather round the beer keg (which has been rigged up to keep cold using the fermentation tank’s cooling system).
There’s been a lot of cleaning and sterilising of the many stainless steel tanks which vary in size, from 20 to 3000 gallons. A lot of time has also been spent in the vineyards, each of which is split in to specific blocks depending on which pinot clone or grape had been planted.
Each block must be sampled randomly to give an idea of expected yields and, once the samples have been crushed, analysed for colour, pH, acidity, smell and taste. The six Lemelson vineyards (organically certified) are spread over around 600 acres of the Willamette valley – which in turn stretches from just below Portland in the north to Eugene in the south of the state. The nearest vineyard to us is about 10 metres from my front door. The furthest (and highest) is a half hour drive.
I’m sharing the house with a great guy (Tress) also in his mid 30s. It’s his first harvest at Lemelson too. Having spent years working as a manager for Yahoo!, he decided to follow his passion and did a masters degree in oenology – his aim to become an assistant winemaker in the next year or so. We took a trip down to Oregon State University in Corvalis and had a look round the Food Science and Technology Department. The sophistication, facilities and size of the department is a clear indication of how important winemaking and brewing has become to the state.
Later we drove high in to the hills of ‘Mary’s Peak’ to hunt for Chantrelle mushrooms. After an hour of hiking through dense woodland we were soaked as were in the cloud layer – but had a bag of orange mushrooms each. The effort was worthwhile once they’d been cooked in butter, cream and chardonnay donated by the tasting room.
I’m enjoying the American way of life. Jim Esper (assistant winemaker). David Martinez (crew chief and son of vineyard manager) and myself went to a large gun show in Salem – the state capital. Here you can buy anything from a bright pink pistol that would fit in a handbag to a military sniper rifle. The people were very friendly and visibly shocked when I told them the UK had banned carrying pen knives. After a traditional Mexican lunch we drank beer and shot things.
Driving hasn’t been as difficult as I’d feared although the Oregonians’ ‘over politeness’ does cause confusion at crossroads! A pleasant surprise is the range and quality of the beer. I’d been under the impression that I’d be limited to Budweiser and Coors – very wrong. Oregon has a large number of micro or craft breweries, producing fantastic ales in a huge range of styles (note of caution: whilst it is possible to find beers at around 5%, most seem to be around 7% and I’ve seen one at 15%!).
We have some very long days ahead of us but are all looking forward to getting started. Other than The Wine Society, I can’t think of a better bunch of people to work with. It’s great to think in a couple of years I can buy some wine that I can say I helped make.
Dave Noonan
Ice Pops in Oregon
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The following is part of a lovely letter I received from Dave Noonan, who until quite recently worked at The Wine Society handling members’ telephone enquiries and orders. He managed to persuade Eric Lemelson, when Eric visited London for The Society’s Wine Fair Tasting in May, to give him a harvest job at his excellent Oregon winery in the Willamette Valley. It occurred to me that members would enjoy reading his musings.
Pierre Mansour
I arrived at Lemelson three weeks ago, one of four harvest interns – pretty nervous having little idea of what to expect. My welcome could not have been warmer: the hospitality and kindness has been incredible.
The winery could quite easily be on a picture postcard. It’s beautiful. Surrounded by oaks, maples and huge Douglas-firs, it’s an impressive building of wood, slate, glass and local stone that fits perfectly in its surroundings.
The scenery is breathtaking. On one side we have the imposing mountains of the coastal range, the other sides a mixture of rolling hills covered by trees and vines. On a clear day you can see the highest mountain in the state – Mount Hood, a standalone peak that is always covered in snow.
Pinot noir is king in the Willamette Valley and this is true with Lemelson. Their range consists of around eight different pinots – these are single vineyard wines and a couple of blends. The single vineyard wines are $42 a bottle while the blends are between $20 and $30. The winery has been purpose designed and built to produce wine without using pumps (pinot must be treated gently!).
Each single vineyard wine has its own distinct character with varying levels of raspberry, blackberry, chocolate, coffee, oak and spices. My favourite is the single vineyard Stermer wine – I may be biased though as my house is on the Stermer vineyard and I’ve been tasting the berries everyday. They also make three whites: a superb riesling, aromatic and full of honey and citrus, a pinot gris and also a chardonnay.
The work so far has been focused on getting ready for the harvest. The work is never dull – one day last week I drove out to the Johnson vineyard, found the required area of vines and picked 24 of the sweetest clusters I could find, put them in a bucket and squashed them. I then filtered the juice off so it could be frozen in to pinot noir ice pops for a wine club event being held this weekend!
I’m having the time of my life.
Dave Noonan
Uncle Dick: ‘The Wise One’ of Bleasdale
Posted by: | CommentsThis delicious Aussie fortified wine stopped me in my tracks at the winery last year and I bought it immediately. It’s made in the style of a Tawny Port using grenache, shiraz and verdelho before being aged in barrels placed next to the winery’s hot tin roof. It will appeal to fans of Port, Madeira and sweet wine, and critics such as Jancis Robinson and Fiona Beckett have already reviewed the wine favourably.
However there has also been some conjecture about the rather quirky label, which depicts Bleasdale’s own ‘Wise One’, Richard Potts, better known as Uncle Dick. We asked Bleasdale to give us a little more information.
Uncle Dick was the youngest of Bleasdale founder Frank Potts’ eight sons. He left school at the age of 12 and claimed never to have worked a full day in his life, funding his various (rather eccentric, it would appear) pastimes with his inheritance. He died in 1956.
His purported prowess is detailed in the autobiographical song ‘Oh, Drinkin’ (Don’t mind if I do)’. Feel free to sing along should you wish, and do try The Wise One. I think it’s the perfect Christmas drink, and for £10.50 for a full 75cl bottle, you get a lot of wine for your money.
This is the story of old Dick Potts,
The wise one if you may,
He left school at the age of 12
and he never worked a day.
He’d open his umbrella to the wind,
to propel his bike along.
In his very deep baritone voice
he’d sing his favorite drinkin’ song.
Oh, Drinkin’ (Don’t mind if I do).
While those around him sweltered,
In the relentless summer heat,
He’d pour cold water in his knee high boots
and walk proudly down the street.
He spent his life at the winery
that he inherited from his pop,
To keep the old Dick warm in the winter
he’d put his mattress on the boiler top.
Oh, Drinkin’ (Don’t mind if I do).
A Sticky Situation
Posted by: | CommentsI know many members will adore the wine, so I shipped a small quantity (it’s very rare).
Straightforward so far. More complicated has been the debate it has caused at our office in Stevenage. The wine’s name, as you might expect from Chester, is especially quirky, quite lewd sounding in fact, and some may even say offensive (despite being technically correct)…
…see for yourself on d’Arenberg’s website.
Should The Wine Society list it in all its glory or not? We would be interested in your comments.
Pierre Mansour
Australia Buyer
Grown-Up Australia
Posted by: | CommentsUnlike the classic European wine regions (Bordeaux, Rioja etc), Australia has a fairly limited track record when it comes to long-term ageing of its wines. It’s not often that you get the opportunity to see mature Australian wines, even if you visit producers directly.
So I was immensely grateful when I was invited to join Michelin Star chef and self-confessed Australian wine specialist Roger Jones for a tasting of some top-notch bottles from his own cellar. The tasting was held in his delightful restaurant, The Harrow at Little Bedwyn.
Here are my shorthand notes. All wines were tasted blind.
Katnook Estate Chardonnay Brut, 1995: creamy, caramel, still fruity – lovely delicate mousse and texture. Mature yet still lively. 8/10
Plantagenet Riesling, 1998: zingy, floral, discreetly toasty, very fine nose. Gentle, juicy palate, à point. 9/10
Jasper Hill Riesling, 1998: serious riesling nose, creamy, focussed; amazing lift and intensity. Perfection. 10/10
Lenswood Semillon, 1998: nutty, evolved nose, developed palate, good structure, drink up. 6.5/10
Moss Wood Semillon, 1995: unusual aromatics, brioche-like, smooth palate; esoteric. 5.5/10
Moss Wood Chardonnay, 2000: pungent, smoky flavours. Full, opulent and slightly alcoholic. Not entirely clean. Disappointing. 5/10
Mount Mary Chardonnay, 1996: classic, mature chardonnay: nutty, harmonious and classy. 6.5/10
Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon, 1996: deep, youthful colour. Still vigorous, punchy, high-quality structure, great length. Will improve for at least another 5+ years and last many more. 7.5+/10
Lakes Folly, 1999: vibrant, high-toned, restrained, beautiful texture and length. 8.5/10
Barossa Valley Estate “E & E” Black Pepper Shiraz, 1998: layered, sensuous, chocolaty Barossa shiraz, smooth and delicious. Lovely now. 9/10
Penfolds Grange, 1990: exotic, complex, fragrant nose; savoury yet full of vitality; incredible ripeness and depth. A showstopper. Drink now or hold for another 20 years. 10/10
Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 1990: attractively evolved, spice/vegetal notes, refined, classy, only 13.5% alcohol, enormously appetising. Now or hold for 10+ years. 9/10
Pierre Mansour
Australia buyer
The Best-Looking Bridesmaid – The Slow Rise of Riesling
Posted by: | CommentsIn his third guest blog for Society Grapevine, Paul Pujol (winemaker at Central Otago’s Prophet’s Rock) looks at riesling’s perennial image problem…
How is it that the most beautiful, erudite and alluring aromatic wine in the world keeps getting jumped in the next big white variety queue?
Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot gris have all had a turn – now, they are not exactly the ugly sisters but it still doesn’t seem fair. When will the wine drinking public notice the gorgeous wallflower in the corner (chatting with her bohemian friend gewurztraminer)?
I have quizzed a number of people about this state of affairs (read, I won’t shut up about riesling) and there are some interesting theories.
Many are quick to blame riesling’s dodgy past (who hasn’t got one of those) of watery acidic bulk wines and brushes with substance abuse at the hands of some greedy industrial wine producers. This did undoubtedly happen, albeit 20+ years ago, and left consumers with a hangover it seems they are still getting over.
The upside of this tarnished history is that producers have put an enormous amount of energy into rebuilding the quality and image of riesling. Now, in any given price category riesling will invariably offer the best value for money.
This is also due to the fact that winemakers love riesling and when talking with them it quickly becomes evident that it gets a disproportionate amount of love, care and attention in the vineyard and winery. In fact, several friends in the industry have pointed out that they don’t actually want riesling to become fashionable so that it remains a bargain for those in the trade.
Another factor that causes consumers to hesitate in choosing riesling is that like any true beauty she can carry off a wide range of styles. From mouth-watering dry styles to some of the most opulent, poised dessert wines in the world, this makes for a bit of confusion when facing a selection of riesling. Again, producers have responded to this by moving towards very clear labelling with regard to the sweetness or lack of in their wine. For our riesling, we try to make this blindingly obvious by putting it on the front label – Prophet’s Rock Dry Riesling.
So, having put those issues to bed we are running out of excuses as to why riesling shouldn’t finally take off. A fantastic food wine, a refreshing terrace wine, relatively low alcohol, the list of reasons to give riesling the time of day goes on… I also thought that if I write ‘riesling’ enough times in this post, that subliminal messaging might work too.
I’d love to hear your views on riesling, good or bad. Rant away: I just did.
Paul Pujol
Winemaker, Prophet’s Rock








