Chile
Chile: Tastes as Broad as the Country is Long
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The Society’s annual Chilean tasting was just what was needed to lift everyone’s spirits as a wet and windy Monday brought autumn into sharp relief.
The first tasting was held at Delfina Galleries on Bermondsey Street (the first time we’d had a tasting south of the river in a few years) and the second at Freemasons’ Hall in Manchester.
Many of the usual suspects were there, both members and winemakers alike. Thanks especially to the member in Manchester who informed me that he was planning to attend two of the Society’s tastings taking place across the country within the space of a week – now that’s dedication!
The wines did not disappoint: the broad range of wine styles on offer really showed the diversity of what Chile had to offer. It’s really no wonder that Toby Morrhall, the Society’s buyer for South America, describes Chile as one of his favourite places to buy wines. As many will know, Toby’s efforts were recognised only recently by the International Wine Challenge, who awarded The Society ‘Specialist Merchant of the Year’ for Chile (Toby’s reaction can be read here).
Highlights from the tasting – and there were many – included the chardonnays and syrahs from the Límari Valley. It is now well-known that this is now perhaps the place to grow chardonnay in Chile, and we now source our own-label examples from the area. Tabalí’s Reserva Especial Syrah 2008 showed off the promise that syrah has found in the region, its lovely perfume and gentle spice straddling the great divide between Aussie blockbusters and the more restrained syrahs from the northern Rhône. You can read more about Límari here.
Viña Leyda Lot 21 Pinot Noir, 2008
With the growers present themselves we decided it would be bad form taking a straw poll as to the favourite wine of the night! Just for the record however, I would have to say mine was the Viña Leyda Lot 21 Pinot Noir, 2008. A bit on the pricier side I have to admit, but the closest thing I have come to a red Burgundy from this area in terms of the lightness of touch and fragrance. I think I may have found a new ‘Saturday night wine.’
We thoroughly enjoyed showing off what Chile has to offer, and look forward to doing so again next year. Given the pace of the country’s wine industry, who knows what will be on show then? As Toby himself says, each time he goes to Chile he is amazed by the dynamic and enterprising approach the winemakers take to their craft – always on the lookout for the next terroir or the next ‘hot’ (or indeed ‘cool’) variety.
Click here to view all of the wines shown at this tasting.
Emma Howat
Tastings & Events Co-ordinator
The UK’s finest range of Chilean wines
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It is great to have won the International Wine Challenge’s Specialist Merchant of the Year for Chile for the fourth time in five years but I won’t be getting complacent.
The first time we won this award, my boss Sebastian Payne said it was for: ‘Just doing your job’.
And what a privileged job it is. Chile continues to excite because it keeps discovering new regions and expanding its list of well-made grape varieties from its myriad terroirs and diverse climates. The remarkable Limarí chardonnays, pinot noirs and syrahs from this cool climate with many vineyards with limestone-based soils has been a very exciting new discovery. We have already moved our Society and Exhibition chardonnays to this region.
The discovery of many 50-year-old, unirrigated carignan bush vines in Maule has resulted in some superb new wines appearing on the market. Grown in a warm region of Chile, carignan is a little fleshier than in France, but still keeps its lovely perfume and thrillingly fresh and fine palate that really is perfectly designed to match a hunk of roasted or grilled protein, especially belly pork or shoulder of lamb. I’ve also been tasting some excellent cinsault and mourvèdre which I hope will soon make it to our List.
The ‘Rhône Ranger’ blends are perhaps the only missing varieties in Chile’s remarkable range and may soon appear.
If you have already tried some of our Chilean range, then thank you for your support. If you are yet to try them, then now is the time. Click here to view the full range, or here to try a special exploration mixed case we have put together to celebrate winning the award.
Toby Morrhall
Society Buyer
Top of the Medal Table
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The International Wine Challenge Awards Dinner, often referred to as the ‘wine Oscars’, took place last night at the Hilton Park Lane. The esteemed panel of judges includes Tim Atkin MW, Oz Clarke, Sam Harrop MW, Charles Metcalfe and Derek Smedley MW.
Buyer Marcel Orford-Williams, supply chain manager Thom Cleary and I were there on behalf of The Society, and I suppose we should have suspected something was afoot when we saw that we were seated at the same table as the aforementioned Oz, Charles and Derek . Earlier in the evening we had been presented with the awards for Specialist Merchant of the Year for Alsace and for Chile (both for the fourth time).
During the main presentations we were delighted to become Wine Club of the Year for the second time. What came totally out of the blue, however, was the award for Merchant of The Year – the very top merchant award of the evening. We are thrilled. This is the second time that The Society has won this award (the last time being in 2005).
Here is what the judges said about The Society:
Wine Club of the Year – “Founded in 1874, the Wine Society has stood the test of time in terms of quality and service. Their wine list features great wines on every page and the team are actively involved in events and activities. Their decision to drop their margins and reinvest previous year’s profits back in to the club is commendable. The Society’s specialist buying team is a great credit to them.”
Merchant of the Year – “In a fluctuating market, The Wine Society has consolidated its position. They do everything well, from entry point own label to offering some of the best wines in the world. Their storage facilities in Stevenage are state-of-the-art, and have recently been expanded. Their offerings range from wines sold En Primeur to great mature vintages, cellared in that wonderful warehouse. They sell over 600,000 cases a year to 110,000 clients. Their wine-list is diverse and well-researched. The Wine Society is gloriously traditional but right up to date – a proper, authentic wine merchant.”
The full list of award winners can be found by clicking here. Well done to all of our colleagues in the wine trade who won an award.
As Marcel and I went up to collect the award, the music playing was the Black Eyed Peas: “I gotta feelin’ that tonight’s gonna be a good night …” Well, it certainly was!
Ewan Murray
Head of Tastings, Events & PR
The Society through gangsters’ eyes
Posted by: | CommentsThe Wine Gang consists of five of the UK’s most respected wine critics, namely (from left to right below): Tom Cannavan, Jane Parkinson (formerly of this parish!), Anthony Rose, Joanna Simon and David Williams. To learn more or to subscribe to their excellent wine review website, click on the link above.
Last month they attended our biannual press tasting of new wines to our list, and below are the top 10 highest scoring wines they tasted.
“Once again, The Wine Society cements its reputation as a retailer capable of finding interesting, good quality and diverse (both in flavour and price) wines. ”
Sancerre, Le Chêne Marchand, 2008 (Thierry Merlin-Cherrier)
A pointed and alert, aromatic and white pepper-spiced Sancerre from Chêne Marchand, a well-respected vineyard in Sancerre. Crisp, tight and grassy on the palate with searing acidity and a long zesty finish. 90/100 £16.50
Franschhoek Vineyards Semillon, 2009 (Franschhoek Cellar)
A delightfully surprising Semillon from South Africa, not a country hugely known for this variety. A fine bouquet of nettles with a hint of mint, and on the palate a honey and nutty flavours all knit together beautifully giving it a nice round texture as well as freshness. 90/100 £6.95
Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc, Domaine Rollin, 2008
This represents the generic white Burgundy territory admirably. A handsome wine that’s bright, waxy and creamy with a hint of smoked cheese on the nose. More smokiness on the palate with good texture, weight, just finishing a little shy on the finish for the price, though. 89/100 £18.00
Vigo Etna Rosso, 2008 (Romeo del Castello)
A surprising treat of a wine from the Sicilian slopes of Mount Etna. A delicious blend of native grapes Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio, this has a seductive beautiful ripe, dense, pure cherry nose, coated in elegant tannins and a long, leathery finish. Both an interesting and fantastic wine. 92/100 £22.00
Undurraga TH Maule Carignan, 2009
Inky, dark purple hue with a pure blackcurrant compot intensity on the nose from the Terroir Hunter (T.H.) range which searches out very specific planting spots. The dense palate is rich with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. A pretty serious showing for Chile’s Carignan’s potential. A blockbuster heavy bottle, though. 91/100 £11.50
Bring back the nearly extinct Susummaniello grape if this is how it performs! A surprising charmer of a wine, this has a sticky black-bean-coated Chinese duck dish aroma that turns exotic and aromatic, full of spice and star anise. Fresh acidity and easy tannins support the savoury, smoky and spicy palate. 91/100 £9.95
The Society’s Exhibition Margaux, 2004 (Rauzan-Ségla)
Big on leathery, developed aromas, this 2004 has now opened up to a wonderfully seductive and fragrant charm, showing figs and dates but also a hint of blackberry. Fresh acidity with a fleshy, meaty palate character and fine tannins. 90/100 £20.00
Warwick Estate Cabernet Franc, 2007
Bright plum aromas that seem youthful for its age. This has a good, firm texture with a creamy edge, solid tannins and savoury, herbal palate. A surprising and very welcome lesson in how South Africa can challenge the Loire on good, fresh Cabernet Franc wines. 89/100 £13.95
Cayetano del Pino Palo Cortado Viejisimo
The Palomino grape shows its true worth here with this exciting and delicious exclusive bottling from the Society. Coming from an Almacenista that specialises in Palo Cortado Sherries, this is elegant with saltiness and a fine nutty backbone. 92/100 £20.00 (37.5cl)
A steal of a Sherry thanks to its nutty, toasty, marmalade glory. Dry and bold on the palate with those nutty, salty layers combining beautifully. 90/100 £7.50
Fine and Mineral wines from Limarí Valley, Chile
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Limarí has already become the place for chardonnay in Chile. Syrah and sauvignon blanc are looking very good too. Early wines from young pinot noir vines are very promising.
The great excitement about Limarí is how different the wines are from many other regions in Chile. Chardonnay from the Quebrada Seca area of Limarí is tense and mineral, quite different from other cool climate regions such as Casablanca which, despite their cool climates, produce more tropical fruit character.
This refreshing mineral character makes Limarí chardonnays easy to enjoy and they stand up well to food. Try our own label Society’s Chilean Chardonnay, Limarí Valley and Maycas Chardonnay Reserva Especial Unoaked 2008, or the very elegant Maycas Quebrada Seca Chardonnay 2008. We have just bottled an Exhibition Limarí Chardonnay 2010 which will be available in July/August. Maycas (owned by Concha y Toro) are planting new vineyards of chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc here with the best new rootsocks and clones which promise to be fantastic.
The explanation for the character of the Limarí wines is in the climate and soils. In Chile, from Elqui in the north to Bío-Bío in the south, the main climatic influences are more related to the influence of the sea and mountains not latitude. The coastal strip, say within 30km of the sea, is the coolest, particularly where there is a break in the coastal mountain range. As the land warms up air rises and sucks in cool air from over the 14ºC Pacific Ocean, producing cool afternoon breezes. Away from the coastal strip the maritime influence fades and temperature rises for each kilometre one moves inland.. Then as one moves towards the mountains temperature reduces again.
Northwest of Limarí there is a big break in the coastal range allowing very cool air to flood inland. It reaches Quebrada Seca which is about 25km inland. Here there are substantial amounts of limestone in very interesting alluvial terraces. Rainfall in Limarí is very low, just 100mm a year, compared to the average of about 400mm. This combination is producing superb chardonnays.
There is considerable variation in soil types. The Tamaya Hill is granite, there are areas with substantial proportions of alluvial stones and there is clay too. This variation in soil and climate has the potential to produce a wonderful variety of high quality wines.
Tabalí are making superb sauvignon blanc and syrah. Their sauvignon comes from a new area of Limarí just 12km or so from the sea, near Frei Jorge, which is one of Chile’s coldest sites. The Caliza vineyard has remarkable deep white limestone/clay soils which are friable, enabling even the young vines to root deeply in the soil. The Tabali Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010 is wonderfully brisk and taut, with lovely nettly aromas and a very fresh but not aggressive palate.
South of the Limarí River, Tabalí are producing the superb Tabalí Syrah Reserva Especial. This has a lovely cool climate nose, like Wright’s Coal Tar Soap, which is very like Northern Rhône but with a slightly richer, yet fresh palate. Here Tabalí have found excellent low fertilty soils and are planting superb new vineyards of pinot noir, syrah and chardonnay with the very best new rootstocks, clones and massale selections. When these and the new Maycas plantations come into bearing quality will leap even further forward.
Toby Morrhall
Chile Buyer
Chilean Old Vine Excellence
Posted by: | CommentsDe Martino have searched the length and breadth of Chile looking for old vineyards. Wine produced from grapes of old vines has a wonderful “old vine” texture, an unforced, natural, concentration while retaining a silky palate. Those who try to compensate for young vines in the vineyard by over-extracting in the cellar never achieve the same results.
The Maule region was the first to planted because it has sufficient rainfall to support vines without irrigation. Recently, wineries have discovered superb vineyards planted in the 1950′s with dry-farmed carignan. The El León 2006 wine is a lovely example of the fresh, fine-flavoured, wine that can be produced from these old vines.
Chilean carignan is a little fleshier and fuller than the firmer and leaner style usually found in France. It has lovely grip and structure, and is ideal for a hunk of protein – especially the fattier cuts such as belly pork or shoulder of lamb.
Words can only tell you so much, so De Martino have produced a one minute video “vignette” showing the El León vineyard in Maule:
Jane MacQuitty Tastes 30 Bank Holiday Rosés
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The Times
Jane MacQuitty tastes 30 Bank holiday rosés and includes:
FC19081 2009 Château Sainte Eulalie, Minervois (The Wine Society 01438 741177, £6.95) Terrific dry, spicy, plum and cherry-packed, 13 per cent alcohol, albino rabbit-eye pink. Also from the Languedoc, but this time the prime La Livinière hillside location. It is made predominantly from the syrah and cinsault grapes, topped up with a dollop of grenache and a dash of carignan.
SP5641 2009 Rioja Muga, Haro (The Wine Society, £7.75; Waitrose, £8.15; Majestic £8.99, or buy two for £7.99 each) Even Rioja has to evolve. Not so long ago I loathed the evil pinks that traditional Rioja produced, but this family-run winery has blended together red garnacha and tempranillo with white viura to create a pretty pale-rose pink ’09 whose fine, dry, spicy, peppery palate is a delight.
CE5401 2009 Leyda Pinot Noir Rosé Single Loica Vineyard, Viña Leyda (The Wine Society, £9.50; Great Western Wine, £9.95) Viña Leyda was one of the first to plant vines in the granite soil of the prime Leyda valley, whose rolling hillsides, only eight miles from the Pacific, are cooled by quality-enhancing sea breezes. Renowned for pinot noir, this starry, single-vineyard, rich crimson rosé bursts with racy, plummy, strawberry fruit.
Chilean Earthquake – News of Society Growers
Posted by: | CommentsWe send our condolences to all victims of the earthquake. The epicentre of Chile’s powerful earthquake was close to Concepción, Chile’s second city. The wine regions most severely affected will be Bío-Bío and Maule, those closest to the epicentre, and we are still awaiting news of the damage in these regions.
We can happily report that there has been no loss of life amongst the employees of the companies we deal with. Our supplier closest to the earthquake, Valdivieso in Lontué, has survived reasonably well; it has no water but has its own generator for power.
However, there has been significant damage to many wineries even around Santiago, 235km from the epicentre, which is still being assessed. The estimated damage to the wine sector is 125 million litres (including bulk, bottled, and aging wine), valued at US $250 million, (or about 12.5% of the estimated 2009 vintage). The total damage of the earthquake to the country has been estimated as US $30 billion. Modern buildings are constructed to survive earthquakes, but the old buildings made from adobe are likely to be damaged.
The earthquake occurred during the 2010 harvest, which takes place between February and April, and will obviously be severely affected.
Regarding infrastructure it appears that the main ports and Santiago’s international airport are now open again, but not at full capacity. Some bridges and roads have been destroyed. However Chile’s economy is heavily dependent on exports so it will be doing all it can to recover quickly.
The Wine Society Strikes It Rich. Again.
Posted by: | CommentsThe Guardian
Victoria Moore writes:
Membership of The Wine Society may cost £40, but for the wines it has on offer that’s something of a bargain.
“Can’t speak,” I texted my brother. “I’m about to be picked up by someone from The Wine Society.”
“That’s an alcoholic line if ever I heard one,” he texted back.
Fair point. The WS’s 90,000 active members don’t just like to drink, though. They like to drink well, as a rummage through the warehouse at its Stevenage HQ demonstrates. There are several un-surprises: a slew of The Society’s own labels, including its CE3291 Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, made by Viña Leyda, and AR1301 Argentine Malbec, made by Susana Balbo – nothing but the best for the WS. There are loads of boxes of Alfred Gratien champagne (reassuring that some are still able to count this as an essential); crates of d’Arry’s Original shiraz-grenache, which sells at £10 a bottle and “flies out”, says the WS’s Ewan Murray. But what’s this? SH421 The Society’s Exhibition Viejo Oloroso Dulce (£10.95; 20% abv)? Surely he’s not telling me an aged sweet sherry is fast-moving? “It was at Christmas,” he says, blinking with satisfaction.
Here are the Wine Society basics. It was founded in 1874 to introduce “its members to the best of the world’s vineyards at a fair price”. Being owned by the members, it still aims to sell the best it can for the lowest price, rather than to buy whatever it can at the lowest price to sell for as much as it can get. Anyone can join. Lifetime membership costs £40 and your share can be bequeathed to a friend or relative on your death.
So what’s good? Quite a lot, as it happens, starting with the rich, raisiny, aforementioned oloroso, which was superb with a slice of Lincolnshire Poacher. AU12411 Plantagenet Riesling 2008 (£10.95; 11.5% abv), from Australia, is so rousing it ought to be prescribed as medicine for anyone who struggles to get up in the morning. Dry, succulent, striated with the taste of lime cordial and mandarin, and, with its ferocious acidity, beautifully mouthwatering, more realistically this makes a fine pre-dinner drink. The new vintage of CE5291 De Martino Legado Limari Valley Chardonnay 2008 (£7.50; 14% abv) is looking every bit as elegant as the last – you can almost see the crayfish swimming towards it, ready to go on a plate with some mayo. SP3501 The Society’s Rioja Crianza 2006 (£7.50; 13% abv), made by Bodegas Palacio, is a triumph of savour, fruit brightness and structure: with gentle ageing in American oak, it’s an easy drink for paella or pork chops. And last, IT12981 Poderi Colla Barbera d’Alba 2007 (£8.50; 14% abv) is very stylish and adult for the price, as smart as an Armani suit, with a light fragrance of petals and a twist of sour cherries.
