Grapevine Archive for 1982
One of the many remarkable things about Alsace is the longevity of many of its wines. And to prove the point many growers still have stocks of older vintages, a very few going back a hundred years or more.
Another remarkable thing about Alsace is the time devoted to food in one way or another. And Alsace being at a crossroads in Europe with influences come from many different cultures, gastronomy is particularly varied.
Anyway, these two remarkable things very happily came together one lunchtime at Josmeyer. The occasion was a thorough tasting of the 2009 vintage which is excellent in Alsace. I was also especially pleased to be with Jean Meyer again as he has had a tough year battling with ill health. There is no one more passionate about food and wine matching than he, and on this occasion Jean produced a master stroke.
The wine came first and was in itself a revelation. Jean had found a few bottles of old gewurztraminer. The vintage was 1982, great in Bordeaux of course but not that special in Alsace. Indeed it was a vintage only famous for the huge size of its crop. So Jean was expecting nothing when he thought he’d open a bottle to see. Of course it turned out rather good, even very good and so he chose it for my visit this year.
But what to serve with a 29 year old gewurz? Often the wisdom in such things is to have the wine on its own, forgiving any faults of old age and admiring its complexity, grace and depth of flavour. Not so chez Josmeyer and instead, and after much thought and a trial or two, Jean decided on a risotto which his wife, Odile prepared to perfection. The gewurztraminer grape produces wines with a lot of flavour, body and relatively low acidity. It copes well with dishes where there is some sweetness as in a risotto. Old cured ham such a Serrano from Spain and aged Parmesan work wonderfully well with old white wines such as good dry oloroso style of sherry, and for the same reason they combined brilliantly with this aged gewurz. Another marriage made in heaven!
1982 gewurztraminer is of course no longer available, but Odile Meyer was quite happy for members to have the recipe for her delicious risotto:
400g de riz Arborio rice
1.5 litres chicken stock
Really good Serrano ham, such as pata negra and preferably cut not too thinly
Sugar snap peas or mange tout
Carrot, celery and courgette, finely chopped and sautéed in olive oil until soft
A good 100g of fine old Parmesan
A couple of table spoons of crème fraîche
Glass of white wine
Finely chop the onion and soften in some olive oil
Add the rice and stir
Add the glass of white wine and then the stock, stir and leave to simmer on a gentle heat for 15 minutes
Add the Ham, coarsely chopped and the vegetables
Continue cooking for 5 minutes
Remove from heat, stir in the crème fraiche and Parmesan and serve.