Grapevine Archive for 2005

Mon 12 Mar 2012

Kumeu River: Ten Years Back

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Earlier this month I met up with Paul Brajkovich from Kumeu River and he treated me to some older vintages of his Estate Chardonnay. We tasted five wines going back ten years to 2002:

The 2009 Chardonnay, currently listed, is rich and plump with a lovely hint of smoky oak that adds to the structure, poise and complexity of this delicious wine. It will age with ease for five years plus.

The refreshing 2007 is subtle and elegant while the 2005 tantalises with its precision, hint of orange peel and creamy texture. The 2004 is extraordinary: perfumed and peachy with silky texture and beautiful balance, certainly the wine of the tasting. The ten-year-old 2002 is showing attractive mature flavours, discreetly nutty and buttery, still lively and bright.

What was most enlightening was the consistency across all wines: they all showed subtle differences (vintages matter in the rather challenging environment of north Auckland?s rather cloudy, irregular weather), testament to the quality focus of this distinguished chardonnay family.

Pierre Mansour
Buyer for New Zealand