Grapevine Archive for USA
I had to pinch myself a few times throughout 2016. Since landing my dream job as trainee buyer (and subsequently taking on buying duties for England, beers and accessories), I have been lucky enough to meet some amazing people, visit some beautiful places and experience some remarkable things.
One thing that will stick with me though is some of the fantastic people that I have been lucky enough to meet who, whilst all have stories of their own, always share one thing in common with me: a love of wine.
Putting together a list of just three bottles that really meant something to me from 2016 was not easy, as there were so many more that I wanted to select. However, I settled on three very special wines from three very special producers, in three completely different wine-producing regions of the world.
You can buy a convenient three-bottle mixed case of these reds for £38 – with UK delivery included – via thewinesociety.com.
1. Château Monconseil Gazin, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux 2013 (£9.50 per bottle)
My very first trip accompanying one of the buyers was in January 2016 when I went to Bordeaux with Head of Buying Tim Sykes. The main goal of the trip was to blend the new vintage of The Society’s Claret but while there we managed to fit in visits with a few other producers. Our last visit of the trip was to a small, humble producer in Blaye on the right bank of the Gironde.
After a few days of suits and ties and smart sales folk, it was lovely to meet a proper winemaking family. We weren’t talking to a sales representative or a marketing person but the owner and winemaker of a small and excellent-quality winery. Jean-Michel and Françoise Baudet are the couple in charge here, at one of the oldest wineries in Blaye. They love nothing more than driving visitors around their vineyards and talking them through the subtle nuances that each vineyard has on their wines. After the tour it was time for a bit of cake before going to the airport.
This was the first time that I felt like I got to the heart of Bordeaux; despite all the money in the region and all the marketing, it is people like these who live for the wine and who make good wines at very affordable prices.
This 2013 vintage of Chateau Monconseil Gazin was one which I remember for its soft tannins, fresh acidity and feeling of being complete, by which I mean everything was in harmony and as it should be. Fresh fruit is there, but it is soft and relatively gentle, with an appealing, simple charm. For me, this wine spoke of its place very well, from the freshness in the fruit on the highest vineyards, kept cool in the wind, to the ripeness of the fruit that bit closer to the river, where the temperature is moderated thanks to the influence of the Gironde.
2. Chianti Rufina Riserva, Villa di Vetrice 2011 (£10.95 per bottle)
When I joined The Wine Society’s Buying Team, I was lacking in the foreign language department, other than a miniscule amount of Italian. In order to fit in to such a linguistically talented team of buyers, I had to brush up on it! After a number of Italian lessons, Sebastian Payne MW, our buyer for Italy, said: ‘If you really want to learn the language, you need to get out there!’ So I did.
I spent a couple of weeks working at wineries in Italy; firstly with the lovely folks at Vallone in Puglia but I spent the second week with the truly lovely, and truly Italian, Grati family in the Rufina Valley of Chianti.
I’ve never had a week where I felt so looked after and learned so much. The warm and incredibly intelligent Gualberto Grati and his sister Christi are now at the helm of their family winery, having taken over from their parents who live at Villa di Vetrice itself. I managed to experience all sorts of jobs which surround the harvest on my visit, from the picking of the grapes, to hanging up bunches in the vinsantaia (see above), to carrying out a whole experimental micro-vinification of the very rare grape variety sanforte.
Sitting around the family table for dinner at Vetrice on the first night of my visit, not being even nearly competent with my Italian, was a strange mixture of lovely and terrifying. However when, on the last night of my trip, Gualberto and I were invited for dinner with Christi, her husband Luca and their two daughters, I found I was able to have a conversation in Italian, the feeling of pride was really quite memorable. It was all thanks to the kindness and patience of this Tuscan winemaking family.
Their wine is really rather delicious too! This one combines the rusticity and ‘hands-off’ approach to winemaking found in the most authentic of Tuscan wines with such obviously excellent fruit, from a region that really seems born to produce wines. Silky smooth yet still fresh, thanks to the signature acidity of the Rufina valley. A charming, approachable and thoroughly enjoyable wine, whilst still smart and proper, much like the family who make it!
3. Hedges CMS Washington State 2015 (£13.50 per bottle)
I’d never been to the USA before being lucky enough to get a place on a trip arranged by the Washington State Wine Commission. The bulk of the trip involved a small group of us visiting a number of wineries spread over five days. I wasn’t able to fly out to Seattle until the day after the rest of the group, which meant that I would be there a couple of days after they had all gone home again at the end of the trip. With that in mind, I had made plans to go and visit a couple of producers who we already worked with at The Wine Society, one of which was Hedges Estate.
I’d heard that Christophe Hedges was a pretty cool guy and I certainly wasn’t disappointed. He lives with his wife Maggie and their two young sons, in a beautiful white-stone house which is down the end of a dirt track, in the middle of the vineyards of Red Mountain. I drove down the track and pulled up outside the house, which was clearly still undergoing some construction work. I walked around the side and knocked on the door but there was no answer.
Eventually, this tall, muscular wine god of a man came around the corner. This was Christophe, who it turns out is not only a great winemaker but also a seriously good stonemason. So good in fact, that he built the house himself!
The Hedges family were like something out of a film – painfully good looking with perfect smiles and a sense of coolness and calm about them which makes you feel like they just love living life. When I went to visit them, I had just left the rest of the group who had flown home and as I got into my hire-car I distinctly remember a sudden sense of real loneliness, now finding myself in a small town in a country I had never been to before, almost 5,000 miles away from home. When I got to the Hedges’ home, it was like seeing old friends.
I tasted a lot of good wines with Christophe, many of which could have been featured here; but for me, this was perhaps the most approachable now. It encapsulates the terroir of Red Mountain, with a hint of earthiness and bright, fresh acidity. The complexity of fruit here is impressive, thanks to the clever blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah, making a wine which is juicy and bright, while maintaining a peppery touch and a firm backbone.
Buy the three-bottle mixed case for £38 – with UK delivery included.
On Saturday 2nd July we welcomed 37 members to The Wine Society to take part in a United States of America tutored tasting hosted by buyer Sarah Knowles MW.
With the sun shining over glorious Stevenage and a list of wines as flashy as Dorothy’s daps we knew we were in for a treat.
The tasting began with a flight of three fascinating chardonnays; firstly the Fess Parker Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2014 (£13.95), a well-balanced, fruit-forward crowd-pleaser that shows that quality American chardonnay can be found for under £15.
This was followed by the Bergstrom Old Stones Oregon Chardonnay 2013 (£22), a completely different kettle of fish. From cooler-climate Oregon, this is a concentrated style of chardonnay that leaps out of the glass and lingers long on the palate – stylish. The last of the whites was the Ridge Chardonnay 2012 (not currently available), a real haymaker of a wine and the only one of our three to use American oak. Full, rich and intense with a nose reminiscent of caramel and brown sugar this screams out for food but its bodybuilder-esque physique can be easily enjoyed on its own.
I’ve long been preaching the Book of Zin, boasting its vibrant juicy fruit and velvety texture to all who can hear, but it seemed there were some yet to be converted to the dark side on Saturday when confronted with three zinfandels. The first two, The Society’s California Old-Vine Zinfandel (£7.50) and the Ravenswood Lodi Old-Vine Zinfandel (£8.95) are very much in the ‘American mould’ of Zin making – big, bold fruit with alcohol just a shade below 15%.
The third, the Broc Vine Starr Sonoma County Zinfandel 2014 (not currently available), is produced by Chris Brockway in his garage (seriously) but tasted more like it comes from a fancy estate in the northern Rhône with its peppery, syrah-like nose and elegant if slightly funky (due to being fermented with wild yeast) palate which, along with the other two, helped convert many to zinfandel and its varying styles.
Pinot noir was up next – Pedroncelli (£10.50) from the Russian River valley, Lemelson’s Thea’s Selection (£19.50) from the Willamette Valley and the Au Bon Climat from the Sanford and Benedict vineyard, Santa Barbara (not currently available).
This was another extremely interesting flight showing three distinct styles – the first being ripe, round, generous and affordable – another marvellous example of top-quality Californian wine that doesn’t break the bank! The Lemelson on the other hand is elegant and sappy with plenty of cherry and redcurrant flavour, great with food or on its own, and the third an example of Californian pinot at its absolute best. As with all Au Bon Climat pinot it was beautifully balanced with Burgundian leather and truffle savouriness supported by fine tannin and underlying red fruit.
To finish, we were treated to a trio of cabernets – an affordable, Bordeaux-styled blend from Sagemoor Farms Vineyard (£14.50) in the Columbia Valley, alongside a big, sophisticated and juicy Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet (£65) packed with intense cassis, blackcurrant and vanilla oak, a great example of American cabernet that opened up beautifully after a few hours’ breathing.
The final wine, taken from our Tastings Vintage stock, was a Ridge Monte Bello from 1995 – a real treat and one that drew a few gasps from those attending upon it being revealed. Despite being 21 years old it was still youthful and just starting to show the cedar and pencil-shaving charm that top-quality cabernet can give, alongside softened tannins and added ripeness expected from California – a truly stunning wine that was a fitting end to what was a fascinating and well-received workshop.
Tastings & Events Host
Our programme of tastings and events for the rest of 2016 has just been published! View the calendar and book your tickets here
Several members may already know this wine.
They may well have been recommended it by our Member Services team, received an e-mail campaign recently about how popular it is with staff, or seen it on our website.
The wines of McManis Family Vineyards just seem to keep cropping up! And, whilst reading Sarah Mercer’s writeup of their petite sirah for July’s Staff Choice, I was reminded why.
McManis Family Petite Sirah 2014
This is one of my favourite red wines and my firm choice for a BBQ when friends come over – which means it’s now their favourite too!
I first introduced it to them at a blind wine-tasting evening at mine. It was wine number 9, and it won hands down; ever since, I’m always asked ahead of an evening together whether I’m bringing ‘wine number 9’ with me!
The McManis family, who make it, have been growing grapes in California for five generations. Their large-capacity winery is dedicated to producing high-quality wines with ‘small winery’ methods, by fermenting and ageing in small lots. The result is a powerful, densely coloured, concentrated and full-bodied wine with smooth mocha and chocolate flavours. I recommend you give it a try!
£10.50 – Bottle
£126 – Case of 12
View Wine Details
Last week, ‘Explore USA’ – The Society’s first North American wine offer in five years – was launched.
I really feel that American wine has turned a corner over the last five years. It used to be a country polarised with generally dull and slightly too sweet bulk wine at one end, and very expensive cult wine (often very good but often almost impossible to get hold of) at the other.
However, with the expansion of viticulture across Oregon and Washington, and growing trends towards balance, more restrained use of oak and a reduction in the grapes’ ‘hang time’ in the vineyard, some wonderful wines which offer true value are making their way across the pond.A few American favourites
Wines like Parker Station Pinot Noir (£11.50), Pedroncelli Cabernet Sauvignon (£9.95), and Peltier Ranch Chardonnay (£7.25) offer great ‘bang for buck.’
Broc Vine Starr Sonoma County Zinfandel (£25) Broc’s Zinfandel and L’Ecole’s No.41 Semillon (£13.50) show what more experimental winemaker can do, whilst Elk Cove Pinot Noir (£25) and Bergström Old Stones Oregon Chardonnay (£19.50) prove that fine wine from the USA doesn’t have to break the bank (this pair is high on my Christmas Day wishlist – both are great with turkey).
Zinfandel: the perfect winter wine
As the weather darkens too, the perfect fireside glass has to be a rich and juicy zinfandel – The Society’s own (£7.50) hits the spot well.
If you needed any other excuse to try something new from the USA this winter, on the 26th November you could always pour yourself a glass of something star spangled to toast Thanksgiving across the pond!
Sarah Knowles MW
No, we’re not in America. However if you, like me, went to the NFL Wembley games last month; watch so many American crime/comedy dramas on TV that your accent is in danger of changing; or attend the opening of every new burger joint in town…
Tomorrow our cousins across the pond will be celebrating Thanksgiving, and why should they have all the fun?!
This year I will actually be visiting my sister who lives in New York to see the Macy’s parade and eat turkey and pumpkin pie by her Chelsea (Manhattan, not SW3) apartment fire.
Its characteristic unevenly ripening bunches mean that the resultant wines often have both a sweet raisin and sour-cherry note, the low tannin level and juicy acidity make it a pretty good pairing with turkey and cranberry sauce.
The Society’s California Old-Vine Zinfandel is a great example of this style. If you fancy giving it a go either with a late take on an American Thanksgiving dinner party, or indeed as a possible pairing for your Christmas turkey this year then I humbly suggest now the time to give it a try!
Society Buyer for North America
Delicato grows grapes and produce wine across most of California (The Society’s Zinfandel comes from vineyards in the Central Valley and Monterey) and in Napa they have an estate (Black Stallion) and winemaking facilities. Although there has been some damage, fortunately there have been no significant injuries. We wish them well in dealing with the aftermath.
As I’m sure you are all aware, an earthquake with a magnitude of 6.0 occurred near American Canyon at 3:20 a.m. yesterday, and violently shook the southern Napa area. I am relieved to be able to tell you that all of our employees and their families are safe. While there is a considerable amount of damage done and a good amount of clean-up required in homes, thankfully there were only a few cuts and bruises suffered.
Black Stallion Winery came through the quake with only minor damage. As would be expected with such a significant earthquake, damage was limited to a few broken pipes, some loose stones in the façade and some broken glassware in the tasting room, but fortunately no barrels fell and no tanks fractured. We are beyond fortunate compared to many of our neighbors.
At Delicato Napa Bottling, closest to the epicenter, fire sprinkler lines shifted from their original position, a small amount of flooring buckled, and there was some damage to the sheetrock and ceiling tiles. Damage, however, was not as bad as might have been feared and the line is running this morning bottling Black Stallion Los Carneros Pinot Noir.
The Napa office suffered minimally as well. Most of the loss was limited to wine racks that fell over with some broken bottles, but no structural damage.
Our sincere thanks go to everyone who quickly responded after the earthquake to check the facilities and ensure that all equipment and wine was secure. During times of unexpected crisis, families come together to support and help rebuild and repair — and Delicato is no different. We will work together to clean up and repair what was damaged and remember to offer a helping hand to our colleagues who may need our support.
We were recently treated to a staff tasting and talk from California’s ‘Wild Boy of Wine’, Jim Clendenen, owner and winemaker at Au Bon Climat in Santa Barbara.
With his flowing locks, fast-pace talking, random asides and funny anecdotes, Jim does still cut something of the ‘Wild Boy’ image, but this all belies his 40 years’ winemaking experience and steadfast commitment to making classic, restrained, ageworthy wines. Jim speaks fluent French, has made wine in Australian and Burgundy, and knows his craft. If you were still in any doubt, just one taste of his wines would dispel this.The Au Bon Climat wines have been described as ‘Burgundian in sensibility but with Californian style’ and it’s the Au Bon Climat chardonnay and pinot noir that have made its name. Why Burgundy? These are the wines that Jim likes to drink himself – wines that won him over as a young student in France; wines with moderate alcohol, refreshing acidity, that can be drunk with food and that are capable of ageing.
Jim was studying for a law degree but a student trip to France introduced him to its wines and culture and he was hooked. He completed his law degree but decided to get into the wine trade rather than continue with law – he didn’t think at first that he could be a winemaker. ‘I turned 21 in Bordeaux, looking around I thought that you had to own a big château in order to make wine, but in Burgundy I saw that even if you just had a couple of rows of vines and a garage to make the wine in you could be successful.’
Returning to France, Jim spent time in Champagne and Burgundy travelling around and talking to winemakers. ‘I spent a lot of time in 1981 with the late Gérard Potel, a brilliant, very technical winemaker. I learned a lot from him.’ He also went to Australia to make wine for Tyrrell’s and McGuigan Wines in the Hunter Valley and ‘Australia’s second only barrel-fermented chardonnay’ in the Goulburn Valley in Victoria. ‘These were great days,’ Jim told us. ‘Everyone had an open attitude and we shared knowledge and experience.’
This kind of openness continues to this day – Jim still spends time in France and speaks to the friends he made on the phone regularly, exchanging ideas and advice. ‘There are lots of Burgundian kids coming to California to learn about winemaking from a different perspective,’ Jim tells us. Climate change is seeing an increasing amount of information and advice flowing back from the West Coast to the Burgundian Côtes. But Jim is quick to point out that they both learn from each other. He tells us that he has worked closely with Dominique Lafon on research into premature oxidation.
It was during one of his visits to Burgundy that Clendenen came up with the idea for one of his pet projects. Waiting at Dijon tasting for a delayed train he bought a copy of the magazine Bourgogne Aujourd’hui and was shocked to read that the famous Corton-Charlemagne vineyard was originally planted with pinot beurot (a clone of pinot gris), pinot blanc and aligoté. The story goes that it was Charlemagne’s young wife Hildegard who insisted on these grapes being planted around 800AD. Interestingly, when the wines of the region were widely acclaimed in the 8th century, it was probably field blends of the above grapes that were behind the wines, not chardonnay, the only permitted variety today. What caught Jim’s eye was the fact that the house of Louis Latour didn’t grub up their vines until 1836, some 70 years or so after the official edict. ‘They clearly thought this blend of grapes, which generally ripen earlier than chardonnay, worked well here; I was intrigued so decided to recreate the wine in California.’
We tried the 2010 ‘Hildegard’ White Table Wine; on the nose there were hints of maple syrup and almonds with deceptively complex texture and palate. You certainly wouldn’t have thought it was made in California.
In fact you would be hard pushed to put any of the Au Bon Climat wines in California – they couldn’t be further in style from the high-octane, full-throttle, sweetly fruited wines that one might associate with the region. So how does Jim get that old-world restraint and finesse into his wines?
Jim’s connection with Burgundy’s top winemakers we have covered. But Clendenen points out that the geography of his chosen region is very important. Au Bon Climat is based in the Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County, three and a half hours south of San Francisco and a good deal south of the more famous Napa and Sonoma Valleys. ‘Napa is NOT a cool climate,’ Jim thunders. ‘They practice a lot of cool-climate techniques there but the grapes then end up lacking in phenolic maturity.’
In Napa there are two mountain ranges between you and the coast. This means that the climate ends up being quite continental and the summers are really hot. In Santa Barbara there are three parallel valleys running east to west. They filter in the fog and sea mist that rolls in from the Pacific Ocean, helping to keep temperatures down, extending the growing season and keeping a freshness in the wines. Clendenen says that he is often the last to pick. Adding acid back into the wines is common practice amongst Californian producers; in fact Jim says that they used to do this too until 2001 when a change to more organic farming methods meant this was no longer necessary.
Towards the end of the eighties the Au Bon Climat wines were scoring high with such influential tasters as Robert Parker and he was also shortlisted as one of the best wineries in the world. But when tastes changed generally (and Parker’s specifically), his same wines were no longer the gout du jour. Jim didn’t change what he was doing to follow fashion but continued to make the wines that he likes to drink. Today, a new generation of Californian winemakers are pursuing the cool-climate style of winemaking – often picking the grapes too early, Jim says, but then he does have considerable experience at this game and a hotline to his mates back in Beaune.
Our opening offer of 2013 white Burgundies, the wines that first turned Jim’s head can be found here
Happy 4th of July everyone!
This week in the buying department we had a comprehensive sparkling wine range review.Crémant de Limoux Cuvée Saint-Laurent, Antech 2011 and Blanquette de Limoux Brut Nature, Antech) showing wonderful drinkability, with fresh citrus and peach flavours, while the sweet Ancestral really hit the spot mid tasting.
However one of the standout wines for class, complexity and balance was Louis Roederer’s Quartet from the Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, California.
The wine had a wonderful lemon and brioche nose very reminiscent of Champagne, but with a little more ripeness and generosity to it. The mousse was fine yet firm, and the flavours really developed on the palate, encouraging a second sip. The wine had great length for a sparkling wine, and we all agreed really stood out as a one of the stars of the line-up.
I will be taking a bottle of this home tonight to have with American friends at their 4th of July party, however I hope you might try it over the summer too and have a little toast to our cousins across the pond!
It got me thinking about wine: which ones have been my most memorable in 2012?
Here, in no particular order, are the five that completely knocked my socks off. Unlike music, good wine is produced in limited quantities, and as such not all are available to buy from The Society. I hope they are of interest nonetheless.
Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay, 2010, Margaret River (£57 per bottle)
An exquisite Margaret River chardonnay that exudes class and is featured in our current Giants of the New World offer.
Viña Zorzal Graciano, Navarra, 2010 (£6.75 per bottle)
Brilliant, fruity red, perfect for everyday drinking yet with enough character to keep you interested.
López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva Blanco, Rioja, 1996 (£19.95 per bottle)
One of the world’s most original white wines from this ultra-traditional Rioja bodega, and which in 1996 worked beautifully.
Ridge Monte Bello, 1995
With 17 years under its belt, this classy cabernet is at its most focused and refined. A remarkable wine.
Chateau Musar, 1995
Possibly the greatest Musar I have tasted. Like a fine Burgundy with an exotic twist.
I have just heard from Delicato who produce The Society’s California Old Vine Zinfandel. They are upbeat about the 2012 harvest. Here’s their take:
‘The 2012 Harvest is in full swing throughout sunny California. Uninterrupted weather ensured that we had a good crop set with healthy-looking vine canopies. Vine vigour has been great with water and sunlight playing integral roles in development.
‘With the weather being as smooth and consistent as it has been, we’ve seen great flavour development and are expecting a fantastic harvest in front of us. To date we have started to bring in most of the whites, with Sauvignon Blanc hitting the Black Stallion Winery in the first few days of September. Pinot Noir and the other reds will begin to be picked around the middle of September. San Bernabe Vineyard is no exception to this year’s exceptional harvest with virtually every block looking stunning… all this and it appears that even the Giants are harvesting a spot in the playoffs coming in to the final three weeks of the season in 1st place!’