Grapevine Archive for Victoria

Business Destinations – Apr 10

Jane Anson recommends:

Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir 2008 (£16, The Wine Society) Mornington Peninsula is one of the best renowned ‘cool climate’ regions of Australia; it still gets plenty of sunshine (being close to Melbourne), but as the name suggests is surrounded by water on three sides. There are beaches and waterfront cafés that make this a popular summer destination, but as far as the wqine is concerned, plenty of cooling breezes that mean good drops in temperature at night-time. This Kooyong Pinot Noir has all the earthy ‘rustic’ characteristics that pinot nuts search for, and at 13% it’s not too high in alcohol. This is a lovely wine, one that still tastes riper and richer than many Burgundy pinots, and would be perfect with a roast duck. Maybe they’ve had a bit of practice with that pairing, as the vineyard is located next to the Devilbend Nature Reserve, and the name Kooyong means ‘where the wild fowl gather’.

La Clape Arpège, Château Rouquette sur Mer, 2008 (£8.95, The Wine Society) Cool climate regions are hard to find in the Languedoc region of southern France. This estate, near the Roman port of Narbonne, used to be on an island (called La Clape), but over the years the gap beween the island and the mainland silted up, and today you can drive right there. The sea views and propensity for producing excellent and unusual white wines remain, however, and this 60% malvoisie , 40% roussanne blend certainly fits in. It is unoaked, but has plenty of structure (there are 3,000 hours of sun each year here, so maturity is never an issue), with a gentle hint of blush, a sour twist of wild herbs and a lovely dry finish.