We’re seeing in the New Year with a bottle of Marcel Deiss Gruenspiel 2012, with a stuffed breast of veal that we bought from the butcher.
We visited Deiss earlier to pick up some En Primeur purchases, and took advantage to taste some of the currently available vintages. Interestingly, they’ve started making some more “normal” blends (i.e. not field blends) from new parcels of young vines, which they’re marketing under the name of village wines. Seems to have nothing to do with Alsace’s new village appellations which are appearing. I gather that the intention is eventually to plant as field blends, though I wasn’t certain over exactly what sort of timeframe.
We have bought every vintage of Gruenspiel back to the first in 2000, and it’s always an incredibly interesting and hard to pin-down wine. A field blend of riesling, pinot noir and gewurztraminer, it’s more about the spice than about the fruit, and great with light meat dishes like this. The 2012 is off-dry - one minute you’re getting rose petals, the next cloves and cinnamon, the next mandarins and candied peel, and all with a slightly tannic finish. The 2013 which we tried earlier is much drier - will be interesting to try and work out a food pairing. Duck, goose or light game will be good, I think.
As we head to midnight, I may be finding space for a glass of kirsch eau de vie…